Wednesday, November 22, 2006

Los Colectivos

Buenos Aires's public buses are called colectivos. They are loud, dirty, emit noxious amounts of foul-smelling exhaust that send me into spastic coughing fits as they pass by, and are a constant threat to pedestrians crossing the street, but I love them. I love their history with the colorful porteno art style called fileteado. I love that even though I ride the colectivos at least twice a day, I have never seen another American, or any foreigner for that matter, on a colectivo. I love that the name for the bus driver, colectivero, is also what they call a mullet here, which should lend some insight onto the hairstyles favored by the colectiveros. I love that I can now locate the appropriate bus in the Guia T, the amazingly complex guide listing all 200+ colectivo's routes (which at first I called the "Get You Lost T"), in a mere 15 minutes - quite an improvement over my original hour.


My first experience with the colectivos was almost enough to swear me off them for the remainder of my stay in Buenos Aires. I had taken one successfully downtown on my second day in the city to meet a friend for ice cream. In order to get home, I hopped on the regreso, or return, of the same line. Because every other street in Buenos Aires is one way, the regreso went on a street that I was not yet familar with, and because I didn't recognize the neighborhood, I missed my stop. By the time I realized I had passed my house, I had no clue where I was, and spent the remainder trying to figure out where I was on the map to call a taxi, and wondering why in the world I was not safe at home in the Shell Shack. However, I soon realized I was the very last person on the bus, and worked up enough nerve to explain my predicament to the colectivero. He rolled his eyes, told me that the neighborhood I was in was too peligroso to get off in, and took me back to the bus station, and put me on the next bus, where the driver dropped me off safely at my corner.
My favorite colectivo experience, however, is from a couple weeks ago, when my friend Emily and I were waiting to cross the street, and the passing colectivo whistled at us. Not the driver - the horn of the bus itself made a cat call whistle, while the driver leered at us with a "hehe, my bus just whistled at you" smirk.

3 Comments:

At November 22, 2006 6:15 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

No matter what country you are in you are still gettin the whistles, love it!! I love the YouTube you sent oh how I forgot how you were filming Charity and I, you have major blackmail against us!! Good times ahead in our new Shell Shack well we are going to have to think of a new name since our new home has a fireplace and an ocean view! love ya bunches

 
At November 26, 2006 6:51 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I want you to write down the license number of every bus that whistles at you and send it to me. Dad

 
At November 27, 2006 7:22 AM, Blogger aprilmae said...

Devon - no, Charity and I already discussed this, and we are what make the Shell Shack, so even if it moves to a better location, it is still the Shell Shack!

 

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